Air Brush Glaze
What to use to spray a polyurethane coating ?
I’m building an outside bar. I used a famowood glaze coat but it’s not meant for outside and not very scratch resisitent-says to use famowood dura-tuff polyurethane coating. It recommends using a natural bristle brush or to spray on. I want to keep the glass like finish from the glazecoat so I don’t really want to brush it on. What would be the best sprayer/method for applying this type of sealer? I haven’t heard many good things about the wagner power sprayers. It’s gonna be a one-time thing so cheap is best. Would a small, cheap, plastic 3 pint garden pump sprayer like this one work? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100164531&N=10000003+90164&marketID=164&locStoreNum=4907
I’ve also seen some metal type sprayers that you pressurize with compressed air. I know they work great for stuff like WD40 but don’t know how they would work with a polyurethane type sealer. Anyone have any ideas?
Brand names aside…being that the formulations are basically the same industry wide; I’m not familiar with that brand. What I am familiar with are coatings.
First of all if I was doing the job; I’d probably go for a specific EXTERIOR clear coat such as is used at resort type pool side bars.
Second… Poly; as well as other clear coats; is subject to bubbles through agitation. Aerosol methods of application; or AIR driven spray equipment, might aggravate the issue. Unlike Epoxy or Fiberglass clear resin that need a catalyst (Kicker) to create the eventual finish and hardness, POLY doesn’t need that; SO in theory at least POLY has a better rate of “Flow Out” in a time frame.
Not at all a fan of ANY Wagner products, I hope you don’t choose them. A “HANSEN” Pump sprayer is largely dependant in any consistency; of your ability to keep it pumped up; and the nozzle remaining clear during the process.
I’d suggest TEST first on scrap; but in your case I’d brush the poly, with the best brush you can afford to “waste” allowing NO shedding. It also allows a thicker coating. You may have to apply multiple coats; and use fine steel wool between for air bubbles/popping/ pockets, but if the Poly is any good it will flow as smoothly as if poured.
I personally don’t use Poly for exterior work; preferring instead marine grade clear coats; but it’s a BAR, and at some point might degrade anyway?
Steven Wolf
How to Spray Glaze onto Ceramics / Pottery